Wednesday, May 24, 2017
Wrapping Up
1. The second clothesline was a good idea, but it might be good for one of the lines to have suction cups instead of velcro loops.
2. The pepper was popular, too, but I should have left the peanut butter at home. I never had an opportunity to share it, and I didn't want to bring it home, so it stayed in Madrid.
3. Take a good map. It occurs to me that I don't even have a good map of Madrid, but that isn't so necessary anymore, after five trips. Still....
4. French Lay's BBQ chips actually taste like steak with onions, and they don't shed that bright orangey stuff. Mussels and eels will not be appearing on my favorite foods list any time soon - or ever. Nor anchovies.
5. An unscheduled day by yourself is a wonderful thing, but you need a whole day, not just half.
6. Packing list was perfect - jeans, capris, long sleeved shirt, 3/4 sleeve shirt, three short sleeved shirts and a t-shirt (my emergency shirt), t-shirt and shorts for swim coverup/pajamas, 1 extra bra, five underwear, two no-show white socks, three black crew socks, sandals, swimsuit. On the plane, yoga pants, socks and Skechers, 3/4 sleeve blouse.
Now to go pack everything in the right bags for flying tomorrow!
A Grand Day Out
Shuttle to and from hotel? Check
Train ticket? Check
Ride to Gare de Nord? Check
So far, so good - but that's where it kind of fell apart. First, no one told me that you have to have your ticket to put in the machine to get out of the station. So I had to step aside and dig through my purse to find it. And apparently, like Madrid, where you get off of an arriving train is nowhere near the actual station, so when I finally found my way out, I didn't know what side I was on. I tried matching the tour bus map to Google maps, but it turns out that the tour bus map doesn't have street names, only pictures of the places that the tour goes, with the general direction marked. Some other people were looking for the station, too, so I set out walking in the same direction they did, but lost them at some point. I got very lost for a bit in a decidedly Muslim area of town. Interesting window shopping, but I didn't feel comfortable taking pictures. There was litter everywhere, and it smelled like pee, and I just wanted to find the bus. When I say there was litter everywhere and it smelled like pee, I don't just mean that neighborhood, either. It was the same everywhere I was.
I ended up seeing the tour bus go by and tried to follow it to a stop, but the driver wouldn't let me on without being at an official stop, nor would he even let me ask where one was. Eventually, after maybe a 45 minute huge, circular walk, I ended up in front of Gare de Nord, but was still unable to find the bus place. I stopped into McDonald's for a drink and to use the bathroom (though I might have skipped the drink if I knew you didn't need a code to get into the bathroom), then tried to call the bus place. The call wouldn't go through, but since the error message was in French, I didn't have a clue what I had done wrong.
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Gare de Nord |
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Random pretty building in Paris. |
Historic Valencia
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The Virgin of Valencia |
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Carlos and the Segway |
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This instrument is called a handpan. It's like a steel drum, but played with the hands. The music was really gorgeous, and I bought a CD. |
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Valencia's "Sistine Chapel" |
Monday, May 22, 2017
Show and Tell and Tell and Tell
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Central Market |
Next, we visited the Silk Exchange building across the street. It was a center of commerce in the 1400s and has been very carefully restored. They showed a film about the building and the restoration, and it surprised me when part of the soundtrack was "Hark, the Herald Angels Sing". The next song was also Christmas-related, and when I remarked on this to Carlos, he said, "Well, it's religious music," but didn't seem to be bothered by it. It seemed odd to me.
We walked around part of the old town, then went back to the car to go have lunch at a restaurant on the ground floor of Carlos' English school Then we had Show & Tell, with me as the show. We sat in on part of a class that was taught by Carlos' teacher (not his actual group), and she asked me how to pronounce "pursue" and whether you say "regardless of age" or just "regardless age". I think everyone was suitably impressed that I knew the answer.
Then we headed for Malvarrosa Beach. This a massive beach, long and wide, beside the shipping port, near where the cruise ships dock. I wanted to wade in the water, so we trudged over probably a half-mile of deep sand to reach it. The water temp was great, and I almost wished I could have gone in, but wading was enough. It was especially enough when a rogue wave hit me and drenched me from the butt down. I was unaware that in Spain, it is acceptable to sunbathe topless on a public beach, but we saw several people doing so. We walked along the entire beach, then up to the harbor that was developed for the America's Cup yacht race several years ago. From there we could see a couple of cruise ships, and the shipping port.
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This sand castle took one week to build, and is held together with only water. I don't know how he keeps someone from smashing it at night or something To the left, you can see his tray for tips. |
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The Unik Cafe and Library. |
Sunday, May 21, 2017
Poking Around the City of Arts and Sciences
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Zipping in, and getting the ball poofed up with air. |
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Some of the beautiful jellies. |
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The tunnel. |
My late afternoon plans got cancelled, and on the way back to the hotel I spotted a Carrefour sign. Thinking I would go in and grab something for dinner, I was astonished to find not just a Carrefour, but an entire three-story mall! With a Subway and a McDonald's. I have vowed not to eat any American fast food (though if they had had a Taco Bell, like I saw last night, I might have wavered) so I went on to Carrefour and found myself a "New Yorker" salad kit, complete with a fork.
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The mall next door. |
Saturday, May 20, 2017
New Taste "Treats"
I ran into Carolyn, Mary, and Karen this morning as I was leaving the Eurobuilding. We chatted for a few minutes with an Irish guy who asked if we were with Vaughantown, then I grabbed a cab to Atocha Station. In the light of day, arriving to where the bus dropped me off last week, it all makes perfect sense. I had about an hour to wait before my train, so I sat by the rainforest to watch the board where they post the track numbers for each train. When my track came up, I went through security (along with a bride and a couple of bridesmaids in pink top hats with veils) and boarded the train. It was a very fast, smooth ride. The movie was a Spanish one, so I wasn't tempted to watch is, and I kind of dozed a little along the way.
Carlos met me and we dropped off my bags, then drove to a little village called El Palmar, on Albufera Lake, to have lunch. Well, I guess you still call it lunch even if it takes the whole afternoon. It actually took about, oh, three hours. We had a drink, then two starters, then a salad, then a rice dish (but not paella, since real paella has chicken and rabbit), then coffee. It was an interesting experience. He wanted to show me the specialties of the area, and this just so happens to be the peak season for the small mussels that live in Albufera Lake. Oh boy.
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Mussels |
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Albufera Lake |
Then we went into the city to pick up Carlos' wife to - eventually - go have dinner. First, we drove through the old city center, then we stopped at the Colon (Columbus) Market for a drink (Coke Light for me). The market is an actual old market which has been turned into a kind of gathering place, with a number of small restaurants and bars, a flower shop, and other things. On Saturday night, it was full of people sitting out at tables. Our reservation for the restaurant was at 10:00, several blocks away, but parking is a nightmare here, so we left the car and walked. Dinner was basically tapas food. We shared a plate of different varieties of manchego cheese (I skipped the one with truffles), then a plate of iberrico ham (not my favorite), and a tomato salad with big slices of tomato, chunks of tuna, and a couple of slimy slices of anchovy. Finally, finally, at midnight, we headed back.
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Colon Market, an open air spot full of bars and restaurants. |
Friday, May 19, 2017
Whirlwind Week's End
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Enrique, the skinnydipping Spaniard. |
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Leaving for the pub. |
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Alba and Alfonso |
This morning, we had to check out of the hotel, then we had two one-to-ones. I only had one, so Carolyn and I sat in the bar and had a Coke Light and a coffee and talked about the week. Then it was time for the group photo and the certificate ceremony. The Anglos were presented with small travel coffee mugs, as well. Each of the Anglos got to say a few words, and we welcomed the newbies into the Vaughantown Addicts Support Group.
We had lunch at a single long table (a Vaughantown tradition), and there was cava (Spanish "champagne"), a couple of speeches, and a chance to thank our cooks and servers. Martin, one of the Master students, who wants to be a kindergarten teacher, stood up and announced that it was Peter's birthday. Alba and Carmen looked a little shocked, because they hadn't known about it, and they like to have a cake for the person. We all sang Happy Birthday, then Martin said it wasn't really Peter's birthday, he just wanted to see if we would go along with him. Then we made the Spaniards sing Happy Birthday in Spanish, just for the heck of it.
Many people slept on the way back. When we got to the building, we were very surprised that the great Richard Vaughan himself met the bus! We all had a chance to speak with him, and he thanked us for our participation. We got checked in to the hotel, then Karen, Maria, and I went down the block to VIPS, intending to just get a drink and some snacks to have in our rooms, but ended up ordering sandwiches. We were later joined by John, and apparently there were four or so others inside the restaurant (we were outside), but we didn't know they were there. We spent about 2.5 hours at VIPS, then stood around outside for another 30 minutes or so (like we haven't had enough talking this week). It was just so nice to have nowhere we had to be, the weather was perfectly pleasant, and we enjoy each other's company.
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Richard Vaughan is not a myth! |
Off to Valencia in the morning. Part II of Spain 2017 is about to begin!
Wednesday, May 17, 2017
Relaxing and Learning in La Mancha
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The dog on the tombstone. We are assuming the dog is actually buried there, too, but we don't know. |
Tuesday, May 16, 2017
Alcohol and Fire
Four of the Spaniards are in a Vaughan Master Class, which is a very big commitment. It is a full time, five month class where they go to class five hours and have five hours of homework every day. This Vaughantown is part of the Master Class for them, and they will have another in July. They are young, and looking for their first "real" jobs (except for Edi who already owns two businesses), and they hope that intensively improving their English will help them.
After lunch and another one-to-one, I had yet another free time. My final one-to-one was with Enrique, who lives in Valencia. This is important information because my host in Valencia next week will be busy all day on Sunday, and I will be on my own. Enrique told me to call him if I needed anything while I was in Valencia, so maybe we can make some plans for Sunday if he is not busy with his family. At the very least, he gave me some good ideas of things I should see while I am there. It actually won't bother me to have the day to poke around by myself, either, so we will see what happens.
Before dinner was the entertainment hour. My presentation was about Normal, IL and how it got its name. As part of my presentation, I handed out the Beer Nuts that I had brought, which they were very enthusiastic about. Most had never seen them. One girl came up to me afterward and asked, "The name of Normal, Illinois - is it true? It is really called Normal?" Even some of the Anglos had never heard of it before. Another girl is going to ask her sister-in-law in TX to send her more Beer Nuts, so she wanted to know if they sell them all over the US. So, I think it went pretty well!
After dinner was our queimada, the witches incantation to ward off bad spirits (and, I think, to replace them with alcoholic ones). The concoction of high octane alcohol, lemon, apple, cinnamon, sugar and coffee beans is set on fire and ladled until the flames turn blue. Alba did manage to set the table on fire a couple of times, but she blew it out before any damage was done. Then the queimada is distributed, and everyone gives a toast to the group before tasting it. If you ever get a chance to taste queimada...don't. It tastes a little like gasoline and it smells worse. But it is fun to watch it being made, and we had three wonderful witches to read the spell in the three languages - English, Spanish, and Gallego (the dialect from Galicia in northwestern Spain where the ceremony originated). It was very funny.
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See? There is only a little bit of fire on the table, it's nothing! |
Monday, May 15, 2017
Up and Down the Town
At 10:00, after breakfast, I walked down to the market with my first one-to-one "victim" of the day. The market was not a lot different than last year, except that there was no chandelier store! There did seem to be more underwear stores, though (anyone need a 3 euro bra?). We kept wondering how people could buy these random clothes. There was no place to try anything on, for one thing. I did see a local woman, with a dress on over her clothes, looking at herself as the vendor held up a mirror, so I guess they have it figured out. I don't know. I think I would rather take the bus to another town to shop.
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Nothing like coming around the corner and getting hit in the face by a bra hanging in your way. |
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I have shown this to several people, and they kept saying, "Are you sure it's not real??" |
We had our hotel tour this afternoon, but the girl with the good English was not working today, so we got a young girl who looked fairly terrified at having to speak English in front of 30 strangers. We had to remind her of some of the interesting points of the tour because she didn't have all of the information (or she just skipped it because she didn't know how to say it).
After a hilarious entertainment hour and dinner, we had a pub quiz (trivia quiz), and my team came in second by two points. Now it's off to bed - another full day tomorrow! Tomorrow night I have offered to do a presentation about my home town, and I can get those 3 lbs of BeerNuts out of my bag.
Sunday, May 14, 2017
Back in B Town
When I was planning this trip, I kind of wondered what it would be like to be back at the same location again, after having just been here last year. I didn't know if it would still seem new, or if it would be boring, or what. I am happy to say that it is really nice to be back here. A few little things have changed, but not much - and it was good to know the location of the hallway restroom when we came in from the bus. The four of us who were here last year have been filling the others in on where things are, where they serve breakfast, where they post the assignments, etc.
My room is on the second floor (well, the Spanish first floor), overlooking the center courtyard. Instead of overlooking the village, my room overlooks the side of the cemetery. Actually, it doesn't overlook anything - I am looking directly at the fence of the cemetery.
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The interior view from my room. |
Our group this time is 16 Anglos and 12 Spaniards. As a whole, the Spaniards are a younger group that we have had before. I have only talked to three of them so far, one on the bus, and two one-to-ones today. The Anglos are all from the UK and US, with the exception of one couple from Australia. There is a woman from WI who nows lives in TX, a woman from "northwestern IN", two from Atlanta, a couple from OR, one from WA, and several others whose homes I haven't heard yet. But this should be interesting because we have a Carol, a Carolyn, a Coral, and a Karen (all Anglos). Every Spaniard has a different name this time, too, which is unusual. All but three Anglos have done Vaughantowns repeatedly. One woman has been about 20 times, one 9 times, and several of us 4 times.
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A model, not to scale or totally accurate placement, of Belmonte. Our hotel is at the top left. |
We had an extended siesta today, and they urged anyone who wanted to go to the castle to do so then because their schedule and our schedule won't make it easy to go any other time. I didn't elect to go because I took way too many pictures there last year and didn't really want to spend 9 euros to take more. Our group excursion this time will be to a winery about 30 minutes away from here, which should be fun.
One of our idioms today was "to move heaven and earth". Turns out there is a Spanish expression which has the same meaning, but it is "to move Rome to Santiago". OK, time to "hit the hay".
Happy Mother's Day!
Saturday, May 13, 2017
Familiar Surroundings
This morning, having been up very late last night texting and calling, I slept a bit later than I intended, and by the time I was ready to go, it made more sense to go ahead and check out of the AC Atocha and leave my bags for later. I went to pick up my sweater, but the kid there looked and couldn't find it. I say he looked, but he really glanced in one spot and said it wasn't there. He told me that his friends would be there later and might know, but they didn't come in until 5:00 pm. I wasn't willing to give up on it, since it was there last night, so I asked if there was someone he could call. I had to wait while he served customers but eventually he called, and within minutes, one of the guys who was there last night walked in. He pointed to the same corner where the other kid had looked, and what do you know? It had fallen behind something and was there all the time!
I then headed for the botanical garden, which was wonderful. The main gate is closed, and the entrance is actually at the south end of the Prado museum, so I was back on my "home turf". The gardens were really great. There was a special exhibit/sale of orchids in the main building, and I wanted to take home about 20 of them. In the other half of the building was a display of Japanese flower arranging, and a couple of booths where they were doing calligraphy.
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This bonsai was about the size of a basketball. |
The gardens also have a permanent collection of bonsai trees, all part of a donated private collection. Their American cactus collection left a bit to be desired, and their sequoia was small, as sequoias go, but it was nice. I'm sure that each season has its own appeal, but I think it will really be something in the summer. They even have a vegetable and fruit area, with big signs saying not to pick the fruit. The gardens have been there for over 250 years, and they are not a public park, but a private research facility. In a couple of areas, the plants looked so neglected that I thought they might want to research how to take care of them. I probably spent two hours there, then walked on down to my "old neighborhood" to have lunch at VIPS. On the way, I encountered a protest about something. As usual, they were loud, but polite, staying within the bounds of one lane of the street, so as not to block traffic or cause any problems. If they did, there were many national policemen on hand to take care of things. Not sure what it was about, but lots of whistling and chanting that you could hear from down the block.
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The protest. |
After lunch and a little shopping (I have now finished about half of my pharmacy shopping), I walked all the way back to the AC Atocha to get my bags, then grabbed a taxi to the Eurobuilding. When I got here, Karen (from last year) and I walked down to a little market to get a few things, then we all went over to the local spot for the tapas reception, where we met the rest of the group. It was a nice place with really good food. It looks like it will be a fun week. Most of the group have done this before - there are only three newbies! We have 16 Anglos and 12 Spaniards, so that means we will have free time. There is a rumor that the castle visit will be replaced with a winery visit, but with free time arranged so that those who want to go to the castle can do that at another time. That will be good for those who haven't been to Belmonte before, and it won't bore those who have, by having to go to the castle again (though I might do that anyway). There is also a rumor that the pool won't open until June 1, but it was open last year and we were there earlier in May than this year. So we will see.
I'm looking forward to Monday market day, so if you need any chandeliers or fake Nikes or pajamas, let me know!
Friday, May 12, 2017
Getting Settled
When I got here last night, it was later than anticipated, and dark. I had been up many hours at that point, and couldn't get my bearings at all. I went inside the station to see if I could find a map to figure it out, but there was nothing but metro pathways that went off in all directions. I ended up back outside, looking for someone who spoke English. I finally interrupted some poor businessman on his phone, and he helped me get headed off in the right direction. It was a little scary, actually, because it was not well-lit, and I was hauling my bags along the cobblestones. Once I got a block or so down from the main road, my memory of the map kicked in, and I finally hauled myself into the lobby about 10:30. I have no idea why I didn't think to call an Uber.
I slept in a bit this morning, then went out to explore my new neighborhood. The Palace is undergoing renovations and wasn't available, so I am staying near Atocha train station at the very modern AC Atocha Marriott. It's kind of the complete opposite of the "old world" Palace - all in black, grey and white, with lots of modern art, sleek lines, and glass. Very cool, but the shower arrangement is a little disconcerting. The shower is in a glass box right next to the room door. It has all kinds of fancy jets and a rainfall showerhead but there is just nowhere to hide if I forget to lock the deadbolt and housekeeping comes in. :)
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The see-through shower |
Sol was jammed with people, and the Plaza Mayor had chairs and a stage all set up for some kind of concert or something, so I am glad I didn't plan to take pictures down there this time. I went to Mercado de San Miguel and bought a caramel crepe, as well as a barca de manzana, a kind of "boat" of flaky pastry filled with finely sliced apples (kind of like an apple pie), for later. No more caramel crepes for me, unless I have someone to share it with - it was so rich I couldn't finish it! Then I walked down to my favorite little store, El Rincon, where they sell Lacasitos in bulk. I ended up walking farther down, too, to see if Steak n Shake was still there (yep). When I had finally had enough wandering around, I took the metro back to Atocha. The line at the Reina Sofia art museum was too long to consider going in, so I went back to the hotel for a little siesta. Good decision, since the rain that had been threatening all day, sprinkling on and off, finally started in earnest just after I got back.
When I woke up from my nap, the rain was over so I walked over to explore Atocha station and scout out where my train will be leaving from next week when I go to Valencia. After spending some time there, saying hello to the jillions of turtles that live there in the rainforest, I went out to find a place for dinner. Even though it was only tapas time, not dinner, what I wanted to eat IS a tapa - patatas bravas (potato chunks with spicy red sauce and garlic mayo). I also had a tapa whose name I don't know, but it was like a flatbread "pizza" with chunks of ham and red pepper.
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The Atocha rainforest. It has pathways and benches throughout. |
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Some of the many, many turtles that live in Atocha. |
My plan for tomorrow is to head over to the botanical garden. I have to pass Reina Sofia on the way, though, so if there is no line I might do that first. I have to check out of here by noon, I think, so I hope I can leave my bags for a bit before heading to Eurobuilding. I'm meeting up with Karen, Carolyn and Mary (from last year's VT) at 4:30, and we will walk to the tapas reception together at 5:00.
Grrr, remember last year when I was so proud not losing anything on my trip? Well, I just realized that I left my sweater at the restaurant where I had dinner. So I went down to the lobby and asked the reception guy if he could call for me to see if they found it. He did, and it's there, and I can pick it up at 10:00, right when I should be headed to the botanical garden anyway. Whew!
Thursday, May 11, 2017
Paris Part 1
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Unfortunately, this is a close as I got to Paris - but I know CDG airport like the back of my hand. |
Tuesday, May 9, 2017
What??
Where did my last three weeks go??
All of a sudden, I leave tomorrow! I'm ready, except for actually putting things in my suitcase.
The shuttle to Chicago leaves at 12:50 pm, and the flight to Paris leaves at 6:35 pm. By 9:00 on Thursday night, I will be in Madrid, after an afternoon spent taking a quick peek at Paris (with a longer look on the way back). Three nights in Madrid, then off to Vaughantown in Belmonte for five nights. After Belmonte, I will be taking the train to Valencia, where I will be for three nights, then back to Madrid for one night, Paris for one night, then home. I actually tried to fly back to Paris from Valencia, to avoid backtracking to Madrid, but it wasn't possible.
I just realized that one thing I haven't done is buy my tourist bus ticket for Paris. I can do that in the morning, too. I'm a little nervous about Paris, since I know no French, but it will be fine. I just hope it doesn't rain.